Installing an Informal Pond
The do-it-yourself (DIY)
installation of a pond can be a fun and rewarding project,
but it is important to understand that it will involve
a considerable amount of time and
effort. Therefore, it is crucial to have a clear
vision of the finished project prior to starting construction.
Changing one's mind midway through may not be a practical
option. Below is a step-by-step guide to creating an
EPDM-lined, informal pond in your landscape.
Step 1: Mark your
outline
Perhaps the simplest way to determine
the exact shape of your future pond is to mark the
outline by laying out a garden hose. This will
allow you to step back and take in the shape as it
relates to its surroundings. A garden hose is easily
re-positionable (a thick, cotton rope would also
suffice) and can be repeatedly adjusted until the
desired effect is achieved. Marking the outline with
spray paint or pegs and string will quickly become
a nuisance unless you hit upon the perfect shape
on the first try. Remember, what you are marking
now is the outline of the HOLE, not of the finished
pond. Rock or other materials used to cope the edge
of the pond will sit outside this line and can increase
the finished size by as much as one third.
Step 2: Start digging
If the pond is to be populated with
fish and plants, a minimum depth of 45 cm (18")
is needed. The sides of the hole should be as shear
as possible. This will result in any uncovered liner
being less visible and will help to protect the fish
and plants from visiting raccoons, etc. The bottom
of the hole should be kept as flat as possible so
that potted plants placed inside the pond will be
stable. It is, however, a good idea to establish
a very slight grade on the bottom to help with cleaning
later on.
BUILDING SHALLOW PLANT
LEDGES AROUND THE INSIDE EDGES OF THE POND IS RARELY
A GOOD IDEA! Ledges facilitate fishing by raccoons.
If marginal or bog plants are desired, it is a better
policy to create a separate bog section outside the
main pond. The bog is connected to the main pond only
by a small channel and can be completely filled with
plants. Other underwater plants can be moved up to
the correct depth by placing their pots on brick, blocks
or rocks inside the pond.
Step 3: Prepare for
liner
45 mil EPDM pond liner is extremely
flexible and durable and should easily achieve a
life span of 45 years or more if installed free from
external dangers. Remember, the water in a pond is
constantly exerting pressure on every part of the
walls and floor, so rocks, roots, twigs, etc left
touching the outside of the liner can eventually
poke through. The solution is to provide padding
behind the liner. Sand, thick felt, foam and old
carpet are some of the many materials commonly used
for this purpose, but no matter what is used, the
underlying surface must first be smooth and free
of protrusions.
Step 4: Place the
liner
Drape the liner into the hole, centering
it so the the excess is equally distributed on all
sides. There should be at least 30 cm (1') extra
on all sides - if not you will have problems later.
Avoid the temptation to start trimming the excess
now; this will be one of the final steps. Smooth
the liner on the bottom and begin filling with water.
With 10-15 cm (4-6") of water in the pond, the
liner can be pulled tight on the sides and the major
folds established. Pin the liner in place with rocks
or bricks and pump out the water.
Step 5: Begin the
coping
This is the most important stage.
A quality professional pond builder is about 25%
engineer and 75% artist. No matter what material
is chosen for coping, take the time to make it right.
Every rock will possess qualities which will determine
its best location. Experiment until you find the
right combination, being careful to consider every
viewing angle. Most materials will look best with
a level top face. Waterfall rocks should be as close
to absolute level as possible. Check the relative
height of the sides by running a 4' or 8' construction
level or string level across the pond, or by using
a laser. When every rock has found its place, they
can be set with mortar or polyurethane waterfall
foam if needed for stability. Remember to allow space
for any incoming or outgoing piping as well as the
pump's electrical cord. If possible, allow for an
overflow drain to control the movement of overflow
water during heavy rains. If mortar is used in locations
where it will be exposed to pond water, it must be
allowed to cure for 5-7 days before filling to reduce
leaching of lime into the water.
Step 6: Complete the
plumbing and electrical
Install whatever combination of pump,
filter, overflow pipe, autofill valve, etc you've
chosen. Use a union when connecting the pump to the
piping for easy servicing later. Provide a GFCI (ground
fault circuit interrupter) wet-location electrical
outlet a minimum distance of 1 m (3') from the pond
edge. Use of a proper GFCI protected outlet is extremely
important when in the presence of water to avoid
shock hazard.
Step 7: Fill the pond
Place the plants where you want
them. Place any rocks destined for the bottom of
the pond and set up hiding places for the fish. Fill
the pond with water, adding a chlorine/chloramine
neutralizer such as Oase's Water Prep Plus as the
water is added. It is best to wait about a week for
the water to settle before adding fish.
Step 8: Trim the liner
Now it is finally time to trim the
excess liner. Pond liner can be surprisingly useful
around the house and yard, so keep any larger pieces.
Step 9: Enjoy!
Step back and admire your handiwork (and don't
forget to pat yourself on the back).
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